The much more prime coast road (19km/12mi longer), running partly homely and partly above the coast, through delightful scenery, comes in 49km/30mi to the stirring little port of Vieste (43m/142ft; undertaking. 13,000). From the castle, built by Frederick II, there is a stunning view of the coast.

Vieste is a small, steep, cobbled town, spilling renounced the hillside above the sea. It’s the Gargano capital and sits above the area’s most garish beach, a gleaming inmost strip backe…